Monday 31 December 2018

AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 7 - Gerik to Taiping

The beautiful waterfalls at Sungai Tebing Tinggi. Unfortunately, Mr Lim had a quick glimpse only as he took his mission to recce for food very serriously
Nearby the MRSM hill
Kampung Kuala Nenering
Splashing time at D'Impiana Riverview Resort
Splashing time at D'Impiana Riverview Resort
Splashing time at D'Impiana Riverview Resort
First bridge
Hoarding the road with few cars
Long and winding road
The falls
The valley
The Third Bridge
View of the waterfalls
Mists on the road
Lunch at 4.30 pm !!!
Caught in rain again, 3km after our lunch stop!



We started the morning on an easy note. Breakfast at our favourite Medan Takong before making our way to the post office which is thankfully just 400 m away. As the post office only opens at 8.30 am, we witnessed the arrival of the staffs and the set ups before we were finally received indoors.

2 bikes and 1 parcel waiting at the post office 
Bikes were folded and secured with cable ties
The bill

We were relieved the shipment by standard mode only costs RM 66 for 2 bikes and a parcel with total weight of 33 kg. As we could not find boxes last night, we were pleasantly pleased that the post office had cable ties to secure the bikes in place and left with peace of mind.


Riding out of Gerik, we followed Route 76, passing by the hospital and the police station. At the end of town, we turned right for Route A169 before taking a left for Jalan Air Betang. Initially gleeful to be traversing past quaint villages, our ride turned challenging when we ran out of tarmac!



Kampung Air Panas brought us out of the jungle and back to civilization. Following the village road, we passed through a few kampungs before finally returning to Route 76.

Again, another climb up the MRSM hill and again another passage through Hentian R & R Selat Pagar but with a break in between, at Lawin. It was only 11 am and the stall was beginning to dish out their hot lunch dishes. While most of everyone settled for bananas and teh tarik, Claudine and VT could not resist their nasi campur. It was a good thing they ate and a bane for others who did not for our next meal was not until 4.30 pm !





At Kampung Padang Grus, we left Route 76 and turned into Kampung Sumpitan. The transition was immediate. Greeting us were dense forest and tranquil roads.








Following Route A6, we did not travel far before discovering D' Impiana Riverview Resort. Hoping to find a restaurant opened for lunch, not a soul was visible throughout our times spent inside. The weather was hot at 1 pm and the river was inviting....all hunger pangs were soon forgotten!


We spent a good half hour in the resort. Returning to our rides, our next challenge was an abomination. Little did we realize, we were riding across the Bintang mountain range!

The actual climb has yet to come!

The whole climb which began from the river resort was close to 12 km with a 3 % grade hill and an elevation difference of 438 m. Some segments were between 6 to 7 % with the worst at 11 % !

Inside the labyrinth of natural jungle, the mother of all rains fell on us. It rained so hard, we could hardly open our eyes!

Mr Lim arriving at the bus stop

Initially pouring, we took refuge at the bus stop outside Lenggong Poultry Farm. In fact, we were surprised there is a bus stop in the middle of no where! But when the rain persisted with no means of ends, we finally moved out but got caught in heavy deluge!

A few meters from this signboard is the peak at 565m

The route peaked at 565m; at the border between the districts of Lenggong and Larut Matang dan Selama. Once in the latter district, we enjoyed a rewarding 8 km downhill glide which comes with spectacular views of waterfalls and valleys.

Arriving at the foothills, we turned right at the T junction and finally staved off our hunger pangs with kuih-muih and fried yu tiau, dipped in satay sauce. The village folks were tickled by our pickled look and while they had their tea, it was lunch for us!


The rain that had teetered off to a light drizzle returned as soon as we set off from the roadside stall. Less than 3 km later, we took another refuge at the bus stop outside Klinik Desa Kampung Masjid !

The evening was coming in fast. At 5.30 pm, we were still 45 km away from our destination. Turning left into Route A113, the 2.2 km climb at 6 % in rainy weather was very discouraging.

Joyce began to doubt her ability to finish the ride. She had almost went limp without lunch at the Bintang pass and yet another difficult climb challenged her at Kampung Masjid. As a backup, Claudine called May to standby, perhaps meeting the group midway into Taiping. This gave assurance to Joyce and she decided to test her limits.

At Kampung Banggol Nering, we turned left into Jalan Kg Jerai and followed it into Route A5's Batu Kurau. Rolling into Shell's Batu Kurau, we set up our bike lights and changed our riding style to a close peloton as dusk began to set in. Meanwhile, May's call to book dinner for the group was politely declined as we could not determine the end of our ride while Joyce's reserves to finish the ride was still strong!

We joined Route A7 at Kampung Ulu Sepetang while there was still light. Within half hour thereon, the sun made it's final dip into the horizon.


Within 10 km to the town center, we began to relax. Taking it easy, we stopped for warm teh tarik at Taman Lela's Restoran Kamunting Utara.

The ride finally ended at Taiping's Siang Malam around 8.30 pm! It was New Year's Eve and conspiring to usher in 2019, we had a quick dinner before promising to meet up again later. Disbanding, Claudine and VT rode another 5 km home with Claudine clocking an additional 9 km within her precinct just to finish her first ever Rapha Festive 500.

Ushering in the New Year at Taiping's old clock tower, we were disappointed the clock did not chime in sequence with its handles and no fireworks were lighted. However, we did enjoy a good supper at Beverly Hotel's food avenue!






















Sunday 30 December 2018

AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 6 - Betong to Gerik

Scorching hot at 11.30 am
The first encounter from the look out
Second encounter at the natural lookout
Long queue getting into Malaysia
Pengkalan Hulu


It was one of those mornings that Claudine regretted deeply. It was not pleasant to be drawn from her deep slumber and packed into their rented song thaew with 10 others like cattle transported to the market. The air was cold at 4 am, made colder by the moving truck which screamed through the winding country road at break neck speed.

The journey to Talay Mok Aiyerweng is actually quite far. It took us 50 minutes in zero traffic to get to the communications tower. Getting off the truck, Claudine was dazed by the crowd, flashing torch lights and noise from vehicle engines arriving with throngs of tourists. It was like a crazy market place except that it was still too early!

Following the crowd and the motorcycles that were ferrying people further uphill on dirt tracks for a fee, we arrived at the 2 tiered lookout that was still under construction. We were stumped as we could not even enter. There was absolutely no standing space inside and sunrise was still a good hour away! 

As we discussed further on our next move, a group abandoned their spot allowing us to enter. Edging our way to the best spot, more and more people left but just as many arrived. 

Soon Claudine abandoned her ideal spot as well as she wanted a space to sit and sleep. She found a spot behind the crowd, settled down and was lulled to sleep by the continuous mumblings. 

A sudden hush woke her up. Yes, mysteriously the buzzing stopped and was replaced by silence as everyone were awed by the beauty of nature. Claudine immediately forgot her morning regrets when she spotted the first ray of sun peeping through the sea of clouds. As if on morse code, the sun vanished, totally eclipsing the lands in darkness before making a second comeback. It was almost ethereal as if God was telling us something!


Sea of clouds, sea of people!
The lookout in the background
Communications tower
It was 30 December and a long weekend. Thai military were out by the throngs at tourist spots and public places. After all, this is Yala, notorious for politically motivated uprising. 


Thankfully, the crowd were respectful and everyone took turns to capture the magic before moving out for others at the lookout. As we made our way downhill, we found several other spots which offered the same beauty but in natural surroundings. The magic did not remain for long and with sun warming up the lands, the mists disappeared revealing a deep valley covered with trees.

Getting back to Betong took us twice as long because of the traffic snarl on the hillside road. The time spent on the song thaew allowed Claudine to negotiate with the driver for a 500 baht, one-way trip to Betong Custom House, saving them the crazy 7 km uphill ride.

Once back at Garden House Hotel, we collected our bikes and Mr Lim, who had decided to give the sea mists a miss before heading out for dimsum breakfast. By then, Philip, Bernie and Suzie were already in Gerik enjoying another breakfast at Medan Takong.


Our pick up arrived at 10 am as promised. It was the same truck and same driver but Claudine's vomit and spilt Thai Tea from the broken bottle were already cleaned up by then. We left without Susanna, Christopher, Irene and Mr Tan as they were on a different agenda to pick up Susanna's car from Pengakalan Hulu and head home from there.

After both countries' immigration, we headed straight into Pengakalan Hulu for lunch before embarking on Route 76, for Gerik. Heading out of town, we were immediately arrested by 3 climbs. The first climb went on for 1.8 km with 5 % grade hill. The second climb was equally long but with an easier 3% grade hill. Saving the best for last, we battled the 7% grade hill that went on for 1.64 km !

It could have been a vengeance of sorts or just a stroke of bad luck. Gliding downhill after a long climb, Suan must have let go of the brakes as pay back.

Then disaster struck! She swayed to the left and then to the right, unable to control her bike as a puncture caused her to wobble uncontrollably.

She CRASHED !!!

The rest of us that saw the accident scene were sick to the gut. A gang of touring superbikes stopped to offer assistance. They helped to form a barricade.

Thankfully, Suan was conscious all the time. She kept assuring us she was fine but her jersey was already red with blood, dripped down from her forehead. There was a deep cut near her eye, thank God it was save!

Rene and Joyce attending to Suan
The men attended to the bike
Nawawi stopped to offer his help. Jac who was ahead was summoned by the super bikers to return.

Ambulance rescue

The ambulance took 30 minutes to arrive. During our wait, many angels offered their help. Nawawi, stopped his Perodua Alza and offered to take Suan to the hospital. When the ambulance arrived just as he was clearing his seat, he did not flinch when asked if he could transport Suan's bike to Gerik. But he was spared his troubles when a lorry driver agreed to do the same.


As Rene rode the ambulance with Suan, Mr Lim was tasked with the safety of their bikes. He rode in the lorry to Gerik and was surprised the lorry driver had not accepted his tip. As for the rest of us, we rode in sombre mood all the way to Gerik with a pit stop for pisang goreng and ais limau.

Arriving in Gerik, we went to visit Suan. Again, she bravely assured us she was fine. Rene's and Suan's luggages were collected from Gerik Hotel and handed to Rene for safe keeping. That evening, they headed for Ipoh hospital for more treatments and from there on, back to Singapore.

As for the rest of us, we enjoyed a delicious Chu Char dinner at Medan Takong before heading out to The Store and Guardian for cardboard boxes. Returning back to our hotel, we prepared Rene and Suan's bikes and baggage that were required to be shipped back home.

It was nice to know that angels continue to offer their help. The hotel's receptionist gave us tape while a guest offered to take the things to Ipoh for us. The latter was not accepted as we were not sure how long Rene and Suan will be in Ipoh.








Saturday 29 December 2018

AST RIDE ... Another Side of Thailand (25 December 2018 to 1 January 2019) : Day 5 - Betong to Tano Maero

Testing if we can reach for the food, lunch at Piyamit Tunnels
Waiting to roll out at Garden House Hotel
At the food stall 700 m from Winter Flower Garden
At the food stall 700 m from Winter Flower Garden
Uncle Meng sitting alone for tea and a bun at Winter Flower Garden...
...was soon flanked by the ladies! Mr Lim did not want to miss out as well!!!
Right after Winter Flower Garden
View of Winter Flower Garden
After Winter Flower Garden...
...few more hairpin bends to the peak!
Jac the Wonder Woman! Besides Uncle Meng and herself who rode up all the way, everyone else had their fair share of push bikes
Right after this corner, Christopher fell !
On the way to Piyamit Tunnels
The team at the lookout. 
Midway downhill to Piyamit Tunnels
View from the lookout
Piyamit Tunnels
Our bikes at Piyamit Tunnels
Piyamit Tunnels

Long walkway into the tunnels
Inside the 1km long tunnel
Inside the 1km long tunnel
Inside the 1km long tunnel
Inside the 1km long tunnel
Dwarfed by the Piyamit Millennium Tree
Descent back to Hiland Stream Restaurant where Uncle Meng and Phillip were waiting
Picnic by the Hot Springs 
Brothers separated by a border
Lovely somtham made by Uncle Meng's sister in law





This morning, we congregated at Garden House Hotel before proceeding for breakfast. While Suzie and Bernie had driven over from Modern Thai Hotel, Susanna and Christopher had walked over from River Inn, located a stone's throw away.

In fact, Claudine and VT were surprised to see Yew Tee driving past their hotel into River Inn, just yesterday. What a small world to see their old kampung buddy in Betong. He had played escort to a group of motorcyclists from Penang and had just returned from Tano Maero, a district made famous by the Malayan Communist insurgency.

As our main group rode out in search of breakfast, Bernie and Suzie drove off with Irene and Susanna for their own private agenda. They will meet us at Betong Hot Springs, 11 km into the route to ride with us.


Out on the main road of Route 410, we stopped for breakfast at Betong Chicken Rice Shop. Besides the standard chicken rice, they offered roast pork and kueh chap; a combination of braised chicken meat and pork innards served with noodles in herbal brown soup. As Claudine and VT were not too keen on such heavy breakfast, they went to the shop next door for pork and fishball noodles, missing out on a breakfast treat from Phillip!

50 m from the army checkpoint is this R & R Area

Once we left the fringes of town, we began an uphill climb which went on for about 1.76 kilometers. The 4 % climb went all the way up to the army checkpoint at the peak. After that came an exhilarating downhill glide which curved around the mountain.


Right after the big curve, we took the first left turn which was land marked by a small village settlement, flanked by wooden shop lots at the junction. This quaint village road led us through rubber estates and yet another rustic village.

Natural thermal pool
Man made pool with thermal water piped in
The gardens
Bags of eggs lowered into the water
The hot spring wells with stainless steel cage for safety reasons



Before long, we had arrived at Betong Hot Springs. It was pretty quiet at 9 am in the morning but there were already a few bags of eggs lowered into the thermal springs for hard and soft boiled eggs. Not knowing the actual itinerary, everyone were excited and wanted to stay longer until Uncle Meng decided to usher us off. He promised we will return later in the evening!

Right after the left turn to the Hot Springs, Uncle Meng met his old friend Poolphol Thongvan
He had made a U-turn in his car to catch up with us!

Not far from the hot springs, we turned left for Winter Flower Garden and there began our 8.1 km climb on 6% grade hill. It took Claudine 1 hour 50 minutes including a long pit stop at the small little food stall, 700 m from the actual destination. Some of us took longer whilst some others were like mountain goats.

Chris and Bernie were always ahead. While Jac and Uncle Meng were the only ones who rode all the way to the peak without pushing their bikes, some others were not doing very well. Suzie vomitted midway! Philip's demons returned.

Initially gradual...
Initially gradual...
Initially gradual...
Everyone began looking for their own comfort zones!
Some had to push their bikes on foot...
...others had to push 2 bikes !!!

We left Winter Flower Garden about 12.30 pm. After that, another few more hairpin bends await followed by steep downhill glide. The experienced riders stop every now and then to allow their brakes to cool down. Young Christopher enjoyed the descent without much care, suffering a road rash midway.

Winter Flower Garden offering free wifi at the visitor's center
While some took the challenge, others took the easy way up
The garden with multitude flowers
Chalets offer a quite stay
Chalets offer a quite stay
Function hall in the background

We reached Piyamit Tunnels close to 2 pm. But lunch at the open restaurant under the tree canopies took awhile.
As we were the lasts to place our orders, we were also the lasts to leave the restaurant.

Lunch at Hiland Stream

Proceeding to visit the tunnel, we paid the affordable entrance fees of 60 Baht per person and hurried inside. Little did we realise, we have to climb through a series of stairs and walkways built through dense forest before finally arriving at the tunnel system. Built in 1976 by the Malayan Communists, it took 40-50 people, 3 months to dig through the hill. Close to 1 kilometer in length, the tunnel system could accommodate up to 200 insurgents, complete with radio communications, work stations, sleeping quarters, storage and kitchen. Originally built with 9 entrances, only 6 remain in present day.

Cooking stove
Museum
Reenacting the punishment meted to a traitor!
The Piyamit Millennium Tree


We spent longer than planned inside the tunnels. As we were late, we only took a fleeting glance at the Betong Memorial Pavillion before speeding downhill, back to the Hot Springs.

A pleasant surprise awaits us at the Hot Springs! Uncle Meng's family had decided to throw us a picnic, offering sticky mango rice, somtham, boiled eggs and even iced cold drinks.

It was a splendid way to end the ride. The eager ones did not hesitate to jump into the hot springs to soothe their muscles while some others preferred to only soak their feet.







With the sun dipping further towards the west, we knew we had to hurry back before the sun sets. The returning party only consists of 7 people with the rests hitching a ride in Bernie's car. The split also helps to determine the dinner party with the 7 confined to eating at nearby restaurants while the rests travelling by car could afford beef noodles in the town center. As for Uncle Meng, we bade him and his family farewell at the Hot Springs for tomorrow we will leave for home while he stayed on to usher in the new year.

Party of 7
Entertained by live band


Photo courtesy :
1. Suzie