Wednesday 21 June 2017

Japan Tour (3-11 May 2017), Day 4 : Escape from Imabari!!!!

Himeji Castle
Imabari Castle
Imabari Castle from the rear
Statue of Todo Takatora on horseback
Most castles have huge rocks placed at the front portion of the castle as shown here at Imabari Castle. It is meant to attract attention and to show the authority of the Lord.
View of the garden below, Imabari Castle
The town has encroached right to the doorsteps of the castle, Imabari
The castle moat vs modern streets, Imabari
Doorway built without nails, Imabari castle
Imabari Castle, rear doorway
View from Onomichi's train platform
View from Onomichi's train platform
View from Onomichi's train platform
Onomichi train station
Out of Himeji train station
Even the sewer covers are a work of art!
Just keep riding straight....
....you will get to Himeji Castle
Commercialism
You can walk the castle grounds for free, Himeji
James Bond was here!


We were supposed to roll out at 9 am but early in the morning, a text popped up on Claudine's handphone. A visit to Imabari's Castle awaits!!! Negotiating for more time, Claudine and VT rushed through their morning routines, then rode to Lawson for breakfast. 

Great place to grab a quick bite since most eateries are not opened so early
Note the thoughtful toothpicks to clean up after your chicken nuggets. Some stores will throw in wet wipes as well!
View from Lawson. Note the giant propeller, indicating Imabari as a port town

It is without any doubt, Lawson brews the best coffee amongst all convenience stores in Japan!!! If you are a coffee person and it is too early for cafe hours, then this chain of stores is your life saver!





Meeting up with Bernie and Suzie at the hotel's entrance, we soon discovered Imabari castle was a mere 700 m away! The short route to the castle passes the harbour, decked with fishing boats and yachts.


The rear gateway to Imabari Castle

It started to drizzle when we arrived at the castle. Taking refuge at the back gates, Bernie led us brazenly through the interior gardens of the castle! Before 9 am, workers have started cleaning up and preparing for the day.



Leaving the castle in intermittent rain, Bernie led us to the bus depot mistakenly assuming it to be the station. However, the staff were helpful and gave us a bus schedule for our return trip to Onomichi. We were all horrified we had missed the morning bus and the next one leaves at almost 2 pm.

We were all confused on what to do next. Bernie wanted to check out from the hotel while VT thought keeping the room until we board the afternoon bus will be more comfortable.

Meanwhile Claudine was convinced there should be more buses leaving for Onomichi. Referring to Google, a few schedules popped up. Talking to the hotel's receptionist, she found out the bus station was just 200 m behind the hotel.

Taking matters into her own hands, she left for the bus station. A helpful bus driver came down from his bus to show her the schedules for Onomichi. However, with language barriers, she could only figure they need to transit somewhere, BUT WHERE???

Back at the hotel, Bernie was gearing up to leave for the train station. However, Claudine needed a little more time to sort out the bus schedule. The couples decided to split!!!


Innoshima Bridge Station is a highway stop
Bus drivers in smart uniform
The bus stop by the highway
R&R at Innoshima Bridge Station
View from bus stop
View from bus stop

Speaking slowly with the hotel's receptionist, Claudine finally got a clear explanation. A regular bus leaves for Fukuyama. Take that bus and disembark at Innoshima Bridge Station. Then, take the next bus for Onomichi!

Texting Bernie, he too had found the same service at the train station. As he had bought tickets for the service, he insisted that Claudine and VT meet him there. Agreeing to do so, they made their way there only to discover the couple had boarded an earlier service. This very bus had left from the bus station just behind their hotel before proceeding to the train station to pick other passengers!!!

All was well as everyone agreed to meet up at Onomichi train station. Bernie and Suzie who were 1 hour ahead, had time to check out the Giant bike shop at Onomichi besides dining by the patio with a seaview. As for Claudine and VT who were held back by an hour, they too had time to browse the other Giant bike shop located at Imabari's train station. However, they had to make do with a takeaway lunch for the bus trip.


Our JR tickets includes services on bullet trains but with no pre-booked seats, it is subject to availability
The new N700-Advanced (N700A) Shinkansen, the latest model of the Tokaido Shinkansen with top speeds of 270kph
Pre-book your seats for a guaranteed place
...otherwise, standing is just fine!
Some trains comes with smoking compartments
You can request a travel chit from the station master

Finally regrouped as a team at Onomichi train station, we had to wait a further 40 minutes for our trains to Himeji. Boarding the old train for Fukuyama, we transferred to a bullet train at Okayama station before arriving at our destination.



As soon as we stepped out of Himeji station, Himeji Castle can be viewed directly from the front. Built in the 14th century, it was accorded a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1993. Even fictional character, James Bond once visited the castle in the movie You Only Live Twice!

They even have a small zoo within its compound, Himeji Castle
We explored the castle ground but not the interiors. With only an hour and half to closing time, we doubt we will get to see much. Leaving the "ninja training" ground, we rode out of the city to our night's accommodation at Chisun Inn.


Chisun Inn located next to a wide river, far away from downtown Himeji
This new hotel comes with a coin operated laundry service and a reception that does not deal with cash. The receptionist checks you in but all money or credit card transactions are done through a pay machine. Bathrobes or pyjamas are available for free at every level near the lifts. 



 It is value for money but located far out of the town. However, anyone craving for a McDonald's French fries, the 24 hour outlet is just a stone's throw away!
 
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*Imabari to Onomichi bus fare is 4500 Yen for 2 pax. Change of bus is required at Innoshima Bridge station so you will be handed 2 sets of tickets for the service.


Photo Credits :
1. Suzie
2. Bernie

Saturday 3 June 2017

Japan Tour (3 - 11 May 2017), Day 3 : Shimanami Kaido


At Innoshima bridge
At 88 House, Hiroshima
Our first digitalized animal signboard
Old train to Onomichi
Just before we were all lulled to sleep
Baggage area on train
Little Mermaid serves good Japanese bread
Ferry terminal visible from Onomich station
Waiting for the ferry
Here comes the ferry!
Boarding
Alighting
Lockers became Bernie's bestfriend
Green signs....
Blue signs....there should be a universal colour !


The morning has broken when we left 88 House. By then, VT and Claudine had loaded themselves well with another round of noodles with stock that comes in a sealed bag! This morning though, they broadened their palate to breaded potato patties that they had mistakenly assumed to be chicken!



More familiar with the route to Hiroshima station, they got there in no time. Packing their bikes, Claudine adopted Bernie's Daiso bike cover idea from yesterday. She tied up her Ikea Dimpa bag handles, then covered her bike with the bag upside down. This allowed her to push the bike all the way into the station without the need of hauling it over her shoulder. It went through the gates without any problems.

Down at the platform, the old train heading for Onomichi station was waiting to be boarded. Even though it was slower, we took it just as well, as the express train will not come for another half hour.



The train ride was a beautiful one cutting through the countryside but the slow rocking motion soon lulled us all to sleep. Once in awhile, Claudine opened her eyes to scenes of traditional Japanese homes by paddy fields. Just before the stop, she opened her eyes to sights of the sea and bridges. Yet, she was too groggy to sum up the equivalence.....

As the train approached the station, VT overheard part of the announcement, ".....the next station is Onomichi Higase". The signboard pointing to the direction of the next stop convinced him further. Meanwhile, Bernie too, had an afterthought on the number of cyclists alighting.....

It was then, when the train started to jerk forward, that Bernie stood up. We all saw the signage to our destination passing us slowly! Too late!! We had missed our stop!!!


Another old train!

Thankfully, Onomichi Higase was not far off. We got off at the station, then took the overhead pedestrian bridge to get on the other side of the platform. Luckily, the next train came quickly!




Just outside the Onomichi station, a corner area was dedicated to bike set ups. Besides a pole to hang the bikes, the whole area lacks of pumps and tools for repairs. In view of strategic locations, 2 bike shops are located 150 meters from Onomichi Station, one of which is Giant store.

Shimanami Kaido is a popular cycling route judging by the number of cyclists in the area. Rated as one of the world's most incredible bike routes by CNN, it is a network of roads and bridges that spanned about 70 km, over 7 islands. Crossing part of the Seto Inland Sea National Park, the views are spectacular.


Our trip was made more special by the friendships we made along the way. We befriended a father and young daughter team heading our same way.... 

With Bianchi girl and her friend at Cyclists' Sanctuary

The Bianchi girl that helped us to take group photos at Onomichi station, shadowed us all the way to Cyclists Sanctuary. Traveling with her, is her friend.... 


Meanwhile, another young couple who paid for Claudine and VT's short ferry ride of 120 Yen per person to Mukuojima Island, will constantly exchange greetings with them throughout the ride. These good samaritans came to their rescue when they did not have loose change for the passage.



Once on Mukuojima Island, the ride began. It was not difficult to identify the route. All we need to do was to follow the scores of riders. There's also the blue stripe on the road to keep us on track. However, the civil engineers and surveyors really need to get back on the road to relabel the milestones. The mileage can reduce and increase again, an error that occurred many times!!!



Mukuojima, the first island was dull. We rode past shops and housing with basic architectural designs. When we cruised along the coastlines, the fishing boats docked by the seaside were small and basic. Nothing more than a motorized sampan. However, the sea remain a tantalizing clear blue.


Not long into the ride, we spotted the red bridge, a huge contrast from the boring landscapes. It turns out, this was not the connecting bridge to the next island!


Innoshima Bridge in the background
Green lane for vehicles to stop
Bernie stopping at the right lane!
Tolls are exempted till 31 March 2018 to promote tourism....so HURRY!!!!
It was a strange experience when we first sighted the Innoshima bridge. As it grew bigger, every turn on the coastal road gave us the assumption that the climb was about to start....which was not! It will take us 20 more minutes, with many more photo stops before we got to the actual foothill.



We observed the hill climbs are all capped to a 3% grade. Some entry point has a traffic counter to calculate the number of cyclists on the bridge. Most foothills along this route are supported with toilets and vending machines. 
 

Crossing the Innoshima bridge, so named after the island, we were traveling on the lower deck. Motorcycles shared our passage. A lighthouse stood like a sentry on the other side.

Directly after the bridge is a children's playground
Beautiful countryside homes
Vegetable patches by the roadside
Traffic congestion near the Morning Market
Riding past farms and hill sides....
....and canals
Waiting by Japan's IWK for Bernie and Suzie who both suffered chain drop. Shittttt, has a universal bad smell!!!

Cutting through the inlands of Innoshima, we passed farmlands and a Morning Market packed with tourists. The landscapes were hilly and dotted with many traditional homes.






Our next bridge climb to Ikuchi Island was a totally different experience. This island saw more tourists which explains the number of families riding together. One prepubescent boy, caught our eye in particular, as he wowed us with his skills, standing upright at high cadence throughout the climb! As the design of the bridge is different, this one allows us to ride parallel to the car lane.


Whether it is street food...
Or restaurants... bike stands are always provided!
Street view of Ikuchi
Ikuchi Island appears to be more economically viable. Ship building and ship repair industries decked the coastlines. Besides, the island is also a favourite midway stop on this route judging by the number of eateries and accommodations along the way.


Tatara Bridge
Bernie, threatening to hit cyclists with the Nunchaku
Viewing deck
View on the descend

The third bridge was interesting. One of the world's longest cable stayed bridges in the world, Tatara's elegant steel towers represent the folded wings of a crane. In the middle steel tower, find a simple set of Nunchaku, a traditional Okinawan weapon consisting of 2 sticks connected with a chain. Clap them together to create a continuous echo up the tower!!!



Cyclists' Sanctuary is located on Omishima Island. It comes with a nice rider's corner which  overlooks the Tatara bridge. Beside that, riders can also chill out at the adjacent food court.

While we worry about our lack of speed, our shadows grew longer as the day stretched on. We were only midway to our destination and we did not know what lies ahead. Each bridge climb was different from the other!




Surprisingly, Omishima bridge connecting to Hakata Island came quickly. After a quick overcast on the previous bridge and a stopover by the bay filled with concrete wave breakers, we started our ascend.

This bridge marked the start of Claudine's struggle. Her gears jammed! She could not shift to the lowest climbing gears!! With only 4 gears to play with, she climbed using brute force!!!


Omishima bridge



An arch bridge and a short one, we breezed through it quickly but not the hilly terrain on Hakata! We were quite new to Bromptons and with no support group in JB, we had no idea where the problem lies. We tried to lube the cables and adjust the tensions but nothing worked. Consistently pressing on the gear shifters, may successfully change the gears but it will automatically bounce back after awhile. It was most frustrating.






Yet another failed attempt to fix the Brompton gears!
The fifth bridge came in a blur. By then, Claudine resented every 3% grade climbs from foothills to bridges. Cutting through Oshima Island's many hills, her lower back and thigh muscles protested badly.






Harbour on one side....
City on the other side...
The last bridge was the worst! We had to climb high above sea level to get to it. Spanning at 4015 meters, Kurushima bridge is the longest suspension bridge in the world. Cyclists though, travel only 2500 meters of this length. Every beams were arched to support the weight, hence every tower to tower climb involves an uphill and downhill slope. Towards the other end, the vehicles goes through a tunnel while the two wheelers made their way circumventing the hill.




Imabari, a port town in Shikoku Island is lined with many canals and tributaries. The town center though was eerily quiet on a Friday, made worst after 5 pm. We could not locate any eateries as we rode through the town.


The owner is an avid biker



Yakitori restaurant
Choice of sitting by the bar or the tatami
We met an interesting couple. The man once backpacked in Malaysia, hence he knew the towns and food!
That night, Bernie and Suzie resorted to dine at the hotel's restaurant. However, VT and Claudine consulted the hotel's receptionist and googled for restaurants. They rode out, scouting the town center and found quite a few restaurants tucked behind the Main Street. Deciding on a Yakitori restaurant, they went in to discover the owner is a MTB Kom!



Returning to the hotel after a visit to the local supermarket for supplies, Claudine's bike was finally fixed after consulting Berenda and YouTube! Sleep though was far from comfortable as they cramped on the 4 feet wide double bed, certainly far from cosy but much better than camping!!!


Hotel Kikusui Imabari




Photo Credits :
1. Suzie
2. Bernie