Thursday 28 January 2016

321 ADVENTURE THRU THAILAND, LAOS AND CAMBODIA (4-16 January 2016), Day 3 - Vroom! Vroom!! Vroom!!!

Tad Fane
Tad Lo
On the bridge to Saise Resort
Evening activities by the river
Recumbent bikes modified for child seating
Pakse Hotel
Selection of automatic and manual bikes
Day 3 - Vroom! Vroom!! Vroom!!!

One of the most common dish in the Indochines is fried pork with garlic. The round eye meat is sliced thin, marinated with pepper and fish sauce and deep fried crisps with garlic. Usually served with rice, this dish is one of Celia's favourites!

Now, when Pakse Hotel served fried pork with garlic as one of it's buffet spread, it got whispers of approval. Especially so from VT and Papa Mike who were determined to hoard for the team and themselves!

The buffet spread is basic. Egg station on the left, bread or baguette on the right. Rice, congee, stir-fried veges, fried pork, puny sausages and processed ham sets the centre spread. Local fruit jams, unsalted butter, local fruits, cereals and few cakes decked another table. Complimentary coffee, tea and juices.


After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel. This time, we took half our luggage. The other half were left with the concierge for our return the next day....but not before proper documentation and photos were taken!

Settling our luggages, we went out in search of scooters to rent.

Out from Pakse Hotel, we passed the money changer located just opposite the hotel. Most of us had paid a visit there. Talk about strategic locations and synergies...hotel, restaurant and money changer, all within sight of each other!


We turned left when we approached our first junction, and came upon a beautiful neo classic building in bright yellow. This is the old post office.

We walked down the street which intersects with the Main Street aka Route 13, then turned right to Ms Noy, a bike rental company. She does not have any bikes for rent that day!!!

Not falling into hopeless despair, Papa Mike and Alvin left us to scout for more bike rentals. Alvin turned right at the first junction and came back empty handed. Papa turned left but came back fruitful. The shop he found had 6 automatic bikes and 1 manual bike available for rent.


To avoid future litigations, Alvin asked everyone to take detailed photos of their bikes. Even passports left with the rental company as collaterals were photographed as a precautionary method.

Anne and Celia were only too happy to be riding pillion behind their partners. Claudine wanted to ride pillion behind VT but he refused to give her a ride. Spunky Barbara wanted her own ride!

Short of 2 more scooters, we hauled everyone back to Ms Noy as there was another rental shop a few doors away.

Whenever on bicycles, Alvin will break all traffic rules. This time on scooter, he was the perfect angel. Not riding against the flow of traffic, he led the team past Ms Noy, went ahead turn left, go straight, "wait..... you left VT and Claudine behind!!!!"

The couple on the automatic scooter were not going fast enough. At the cross junction, they got left behind! They tried to give chase but an automatic ride does not power up fast enough! They searched for the group but finally decided to get back to the familiar post office and wait to be picked up.

After a few futile SOS calls to Alvin and Celia, they came back for their rescue.

Hurray!!! The lost lambs were found!

Another 2 manual Honda Wave scooters were picked up. Standard procedure, standard rates. 50,000 kips for manual bikes, 70,000 kips for automatic bikes. Rates were for 2 days.

Everyone were roaring to go. It's been an hour!!! Our LTF chief even joked he is retiring soon!!!

Vroom! Vroom!! Vrooooo *hic* *cough******

Barbara was still getting a lesson on manual bikes!!!

Supreme Commander, got off his bike, went back and told Colin to switch bikes with Barbara!

Vrooooooooooooooommmmmmm!!!

Off we went!!!

Within minutes, we made a stop at a petrol kiosk. It seems the bike companies here siphoned all excess petrol from the scooters. All fuel gauge points to the letter "E"!!! Depending on the size of the tanks, we filled up between 20,000 to 25,000 kips worth of fuel.

This time, we actually rode ahead!

We left the town.

We rode past stalls selling baskets and rattan wares.

We rode past Dao Coffee factory.

We came up to a fork road. There were a lot of fruits and food stalls here. We made a stop.

Over at this stop, the Howards tried to buy some bananas but were put off when they were offered a whole tier. Noticing their predicament, Claudine tried to help out. She managed to get a comb at 10,000 kips with hand gestures and simple English.


While the coffee addicts decided to have a coffee break, they soon learnt the way coffee were sold in this part of the world. Tear away a packet of your choice from the train of coffee packets, get your hot water from the stall owner, pay and brew your own cuppa!

Being Gulliver in the land of Liliputians has it's disadvantages. Walking to the table with his coffee, Ian knocked his head against the beam that supports the roof of the stall! Half his coffee went to the ground!

When we were happy with our break, we rode out again. This time the air becomes colder as we ride further away from Pakse! We then realized, the ride has been a gradual slope uphill and we have reached the top of the Bolaven Plateau!!!



We stopped for lunch at Sabaidee Valley. Beautiful roses and hydrangeas decked the resort. Flowers aside, what first caught Papa's attention were the 2 recumbent bikes parked outside.

Nosing around, we found out the French family of 4 and their 2 other friends have been cycling  the past 18 months and has another 5 more months to go! They will clock 10,000 km when they are done! The 2 kids, no more than 8 years old!

We ate generously and were surprised the average cost including drinks is USD 5 per pax. Good food, intermittent wifi, cool weather and beautiful surroundings!

After lunch, we headed up to Tad Fane Resort. It was a short ride from Sabaidee Valley. Entrance fee is 5000 kips per pax, motorcycle parking is 3000 kips. A short 5 minutes walk led to a most beautiful sight. Here, 2 waterfalls converged 120m down the valley. It was breathtakingly gorgeous.

The terrain in the area is rugged. There were no visible paths that led to the falls. Since none of us are Tarzans nor Janes, we soon left Tad Fane.


We did do some swinging just before we left though! We tried out the bamboo hammocks around the resort. Terk though had a hard time getting up!!!

As we rode the bumpy gravel path to the junction, we met out French friends again! Celia was delighted she could take better photos of them! We bid them Bon jour and sped away.

We sped for about 45 minutes.

We passed by unruly green bushes and wild daisies.

We overtook few lorries being loaded with cabbages. It was a throw and catch game.

We crossed 3 streams.

3 pigs crossed our paths....1 black, 1 white and 1 piglet.

A duck quacked as it tried crossing before 9 scooters!!!

Then we saw coffee beans drying on mats.

More pigs!

On quiet roads away from the villages, the roads become less dusty. Houses were mostly built with wood and some uses mats as walls. These mats are woven out of mengkuang leaves, aka screw pine leaves.

When we finally made a stop, Barbara announced she had a wobble. Alvin shared some tips on riding, one of which sounded like it was picked up from Disney Pixar's movie, Cars. "You turn right to go left!" Yes, Doc! We've got it!

Colin and Frank shared a "brotherly" time within everyone's sight! Well....we shall say the dry parched land needed some watering!!!


While he was hung upside down yesterday, Alvin was hauled onto Celia's back today! Another treatment for his back! This prompted Papa Mike and VT to get into a Heavyweight lifting competition. It was a draw between the 2 men!

After the bonding time, we rode again. This time, we rode for almost an hour during which we refueled our scooters. Meanwhile, Papa Mike went off to recce the place.


We finally reached Tad Lo where we will spend the night. Dusk was approaching. It was lovely to see a lot of activities by the wide river. Some villagers were bathing while some were washing by the banks. Wooden houses on stilts spread out along the river.

We stopped at Palamei guesthouse. Papa Mike had prebooked this accomodation for us when the intended abode by the waterfalls were fully booked. Celia who had stayed by the waterfalls on her previous visit was bent on getting a place there. She invited Claudine and VT to do what she termed as "exploring".


They went down a pot holed road, crossed a long wooden bridge and came upon Saise Resort overlooking the most breathtaking waterfalls. Alvin was surprised they had so many rooms available for the night! Either a change of phone numbers or communication breakdown had caused the misunderstanding.


The whole team moved to Saise Resort. We paid 250,000 kips for the presidential suite, large room with princess mosquito net, a coffee table for 4 and a balcony that opens up to the falls! The smaller rooms went for 180,000 kips.

That night, we had a wonderful dinner by the waterfalls under the canopy of a few large trees.
Dinner was 710,000 kip for fried pork ribs, curry beef, ginger chicken, egg omelette and mix vegetables. We finished dinner with tea and coffee.


When some of us decided to move nearer to the falls illuminated by spot lights, VT spotted a leaf bug. KC picked it up and together, they posed for us.

It was yet another starry night!

Our journey to Tad Lo was 120 km. We were ready for bed! But before bed, we met another couple on the rickety bamboo bridge. They had just finished dinner at Tad Lo Lodge and were full of complains about their services.

All of us slept well listening to the gushing water of the falls. Besides, our conscience were clear. We had sent Papa Mike and Frank back to Palamei Resort to settle an amicable sum of 150,000 kips for cancellation of rooms.


Friday 22 January 2016

321 ADVENTURE THRU THAILAND, LAOS AND CAMBODIA (4-16 January 2016), Day 2 - 3 meals, 2 punctures, 1 nut

 20-25 km stretch of bumpy road with loose gravels
Kids on their home run
Street tailor
Street Laundromat
Street gym
Street barbecue
Chong Met, Thailand immigration

 

Everyone were in good spirits on the morning of Day 2. Everyone had rave reviews about their stay....new boutique hotel, great facilities including a gym, complimentary tea and coffee with a small kettle in the room....they even spoil us with chocolate wafers and chips!!!

Everyone except Claudine! She did not have a good night's sleep. The satin-like comforter kept slipping off the bed, exposing her to the cold air-conditioned room.


Breakfast was a choice of pork rib noodle soup, pork rib porridge, pan fried eggs topped with Chinese sausages, thinly julienned ham, minced meat, veges and spring onions or an American breakfast of eggs with 2 puny frankfurters! Besides that, there was a buffet set up of fruits, salads, breads and jams, juices, tea and coffee. The whole dining area was designed in a quirky retro design that was at the same time cosy and relaxing.

Papa and KC did not get to enjoy the ambience of the restaurant for long. Eddie, the proprietor came as promised. They went in search of the missing hub nut on Papa's bike.


While the three set off from bicycle shops to bicycle shops, the remaining team had something else to do. Frank, Claudine and VT followed Alvin to a nearby bike shop to pump up their bikes.

Yudee Cycle had people banging on their doors before they were ready for business. Yudee Cycle corrected Frank's wheel alignment for a mere 80 Baht. Three cheers for Yudee Cycle!!!

Out of goodwill and feeling grateful, Frank went on to buy an extra inner tube, having broken the valve at the airport. Last night, while everyone retired in their rooms, he was given a lesson on Tyre Change 101 by legends KC and Alvin.

When they got back, the Howards and Meadows were already packing their bikes. They used clear laundry plastic bags to wrap their bikes. These were acquired from the nearby dhoby shop the night before after a struggle with words and hand gestures.


The 2 eleven seater vans came timely. Everyone convened timely. Even Papa, KC and Eddie came back right on time.

The bikes and bags were loaded onto the vans. But.....we could not set out! Papa's hub nut was being machined out of solid steel. The whole job will take 2 hours to complete.

One option was for us to set out on the hired van without Papa. He will find his way to the border town of Chong Mek alone! However, nobody wanted to leave him behind.

While Alvin negotiated with the van drivers, Claudine shared the remaining chocolates, presents from Papa Mike with everyone. As usual, Alvin's winning smiles bowled over the drivers. They agreed to wait in exchange for a small tip on top of the van rentals of 3700 baht.

With 2 hours to spare, many of us decided to scour the shops on the streets. At the junction where there were a few coin operated washing machines displayed openly by the side of the street, the Howards and Meadows turned left while the Choongs turned right.

 

The Choongs checked out the two 7 Eleven shops located a few hundred meters from each other....Collagen drinks at 40bahts, a cheap alternative to cosmetic surgery.....Still single??? Get a Man Some drink for 10.50 baht!!!

They passed by the many hair salons, the open air gym located on a corner shop lot, Tesco Extra, a drink shop that sells cold, up-sized drinks...


The drink shop was enjoying brisk business. Cups or bags were packed full with shaved ice, before the choice of syrup and flavours were added. On that hot mid-afternoon, they had many take aways!!!

On their walk back, VT and Claudine chanced upon KC and Papa enjoying barbecued chicken wings in a shop. They stepped in to join the conspirators to a pre-lunch snack!


When they got back, Alvin was hanging upside down at the gym. Celia had propped him there. Treatment for a slipped disc!

The next order is to have lunch before moving out. Quoting Papa Mike, "When you loose your nuts, you get screwed!", he did not get to eat. His hub nut was ready and he had to pick it up together with Eddie and KC.

We finally made the journey to Chong Mek in our rented vans. Papa and KC did not miss their lunch, actually. We changed their orders to a take-away so that they could have it on the go. 

The hub nut costs 200 baht but Papa was so grateful he paid 300 baht instead.

The journey to Chong Mek took about an hour. Our vans turned left as soon as the Thai check point became visible. A corner shop selling all clothings in army fatigue prints caught VT's eye. "If you can't gain access into Laos, buy an army fatigue and go via the jungles, commando style!"

As soon as our vans screeched to a stop outside a 7 Eleven, eager porters with pushcarts hurried over. They soon left, disappointed when they saw us unpacking our bikes.




When all were ready, we pushed our bikes to the Thai check point...

Then, the dilemma of crossing the border came about. The lorries, motorcycles and porters used the booths on the roads. The people on foot went into the building and exit the other side. We were a peculiar category. Frank went in the building and soon came back with instructions....leave the bikes outside, go in the building to get the passports stamped, retrieve the bicycles and roll out via the booths!



Before actually leaving Thailand, some of us needed to answer the call of nature. Toilets was by the car park on the other side of the building. Quite a walk but worth the clean toilets. Only Celia, Claudine and Barbara made the walk. The others were told by the porters, that there were cleaner toilets at the Laos Duty Free shops just a hundred meters away.

The ride into Laos was rather superficial. We rode past the Thai immigration booths, onto a bumpy road, then came upon the Laos Duty Free shop just as told. There were no border guards, boom gates nor check points to mark the entry into Laos!

Stopping at the Duty Free, Alvin was upset after a headcount. Nobody knew where Celia and Papa Mike was! It was a good 10 minutes before they reappeared.

Papa Mike had bike problem No. 2!!! He insisted his handle bar post has become shorter!!! Unconvinced but with no means to stand his ground, he left together with the group.


Just another hundred meters ahead, was the Laos immigration office. Located unsuspectingly up a knoll, its only tell tale signs are the number of tourists waiting for their visas and of course the usual flags on flag poles.

While VT and Alvin stood guard, the rest went up the stairs. We soon found out the front counters are for the locals, sides are for visas on arrival and the back are for foreigners.

The Malaysian and Singapore contingents went to the back. The Australian contingents though, had to apply for visas. They were made to fill up their visa forms on a large low table made up of very low quality plywood, unfinished and unlacquered!

The visa wait took forever!

While waiting, Alvin, Claudine and Papa Mike walked down the road to Lao Development Bank. A new building, it stood starkly alone. Surrounding the building were loose gravels. The whole place looked so deserted, at one point, Alvin thought it was not opened for business yet. They got some USD changed into the local kips currency for petty cash, then helped themselves to the cold water dispenser.


As the trio walked back up the road, they ogled over the makeshift stalls by the road.

Silver belts, crafts, clothings...

Honey combs, jumping baby frogs in a tub, sun dried frogs...

Meanwhile, Barbara was getting hot and thirsty. She found a local lady selling bottled water from an orange cooler box. Still new to the currencies and foreign to the local language, it took her, Claudine and VT quite awhile to convince the lady 7 bottles of drinks is just about right for 3 persons!

Finally, we set out for Pakse!

The roads were wide and new here. The lorries that ply the roads all pull a trailer besides the original load it was already carrying.


A few kilometers later, we saw school kids on their home run. Kids on foot, kids on bicycles, kids on motorcycles without helmets. Some of the kids riding on motorcycles looked no more than 10 years old!!!

We came upon dry paddy fields. Already harvested, the fields were left unattended.

We shared the road with peculiar looking farm vehicles. These were meant to plough the paddy fields. But as harvest time is over, it now pulls a trailer that sits the farmer's family! At one point, Papa held on to a farm vehicle for a free ride but soon realized it was travelling on a speed lower than his own footwork!

We shared the road with cows! They were everywhere and they left their droppings everywhere! Rolling on certain segments of the road was like riding on a mine field! After a while, we got bored and started observing the dung cakes. Flat cakes, rolled over cakes, 8 inch high cakes....

Soon, Papa Mike had bike problem No. 3!!!! His seat post kept sliding down.


We had our first drink stop at a mechanic cum convenience store. Here, we had our first taste of Laotian hospitality. The owner brought out more chairs for Papa, VT and Claudine when they rolled in.

They also allowed us to help ourselves to their large bottled water. It was so hot Colin poured cold water over his head. Barbara and Anne wet their bandanas, another cooling measure on this hot afternoon weather.

Then we set out again!

This time, the road starts to misbehave! Holes! Pebbles!! Sand!!!

Claudine's bike rattled so much she started to wonder who will be the first to get a puncture!


And then, it happened!!! On Celia's bike!

Celia borrowed Frank's inner tube.


And then, it happened again!!! On Frank's bike!

Frank borrowed VT's inner tube.

Both punctures were 45 minutes apart. The first puncture happened over a bright evening sky. The second puncture happened at dusk, when the sun was beginning to set. We finally rolled again at night fall.

It was a starry night. Occasionally we called out, "Holes!" to warn each other. Much later, an illuminated statue of Buddha on a hill greeted us.

We crossed the Mekong river on a wide and long bridge.

Champasak Grand Hotel beckoned us with it's 5 star luxury stay by the river. It's waterfront restaurant called out to us. Wearily, we rolled past.

Just ahead, at the roundabout everyone slowed down to regroup. We have reached the city.
We passed the English and computer studies center.

We saw the School of Health Science.

We rode passed the markets.


We stopped at Restaurant Xuan Mai.

Papa Mike was given the honour to order for us. He was in a celebratory mood. He ordered so much....Stir fried beef, Vietnamese spring roll, ginger chicken, fried pork, Mekong fish, papaya salad. We toasted the ride with beer, soda and Coke.

When we were ready to leave, we were slapped with a 924,000 Kips bill!!! Nobody bothered too much about the bill. Everyone were just too happy to walk the short distance to Pakse Hotel. Everyone were too grateful the rattling ride is finally over!

.....though it was only a mere 47 km!!!!

Monday 18 January 2016

321 ADVENTURE THRU THAILAND, LAOS AND CAMBODIA (4-16 January 2016), Day 1 - Papa lost his nuts


Lunch with Prim
Arrival at Suvarnabhumi airport
Ubon Bliss
Odd Sized Luggage means lugging yourself!
January 4th is the first day of school for Singapore and Malaysia. Marking the end of the holidays and Monday, the start of the work week,  VT and Claudine set off from home at 6 am. In anticipation of a severe jam, they were pleasantly surprised when their hired private car cruised into Departure Lane just before 8 am.

Breakfast was at the "1983" coffee shop. VT had a big breakfast of Nasi Lemak served with fried chicken, fish and egg. Claudine could not resist her favourite Kaya toast served with a chunk of cold butter and half boiled eggs. Together they downed their breakfasts with hot milk tea.

With so many hours to burn, VT went window shopping leaving Claudine with her app chats and social medias. After an hour, they reckon time ticks slower in the 80's!!! They moved out of the time warp to present day, checked in their bikes and moved on to another cosy area for yet another retreat.

KC checked in at 9.30am. He passed through immigration after a short chat with The Choongs. He was bent on breaking down his USD into smaller denominations. Hence, he went hunting for more money changers.

After awhile, there wasn't much going on in social medias. Claudine tried a snooze. She felt like a modern day gypsy traveller, bent over 2 chairs with a half feet gap in between! She managed a half conscious state of slumber for 20 minutes!

When the muscles will take no more of the twist and stretch of a circus contortionist, Claudine got up. She spotted Alvin, Celia and Frank at the Tiger check in counter at 10.10 am!

Hurray! More company!!!

As VT hurried over to help with the bike boxes, greetings were exchanged. Meanwhile, Claudine received a most thoughtful gift, a silk travel blanket from Mr and Mrs LTF! This will prove to be very useful on Day 5.

Everyone were already informed of Alvin's medical condition. Coming home from Japan, a few days ago, he had carried 10 days worth of shopping on top of the already heavy luggages. Suspected slipped discs on L3 and L4, he had even gone for traction the day before! We could only pray for the best.

As some of us had not had breakfast, we proceeded to the airport's staff canteen for a quick bite. Ying Chang our other LTF team member dropped by with wife Doreen. He had to sit out this trip but came all the same to give us moral support!


It was a brief get together. While everyone chatted away, Celia and Claudine gobbled down bak chor mee, yet managed some decent conversation. Frank bought everyone drinks. After that, there were the usual hugs and goodbyes just before immigration. Thereafter, we stepped through passport controls and left our "Macgyver" and his glamorous wife behind.

Papa Mike met us at the gate but KC only came in when Tiger air was starting to board the passengers!!!

On flight, Celia walked the cabin distributing mua chee from Japan. She was made chief stewardess by the LTF team. Best tasting mua chees around!


Suvarnabhumi airport was super crowded! Immigration was packed and would have taken us 1 hour to clear, had we followed the usual queues. Thankfully, we were not ordinary travellers. With Celia's and Frank's APEC cards, we were whisked through at the special lane!!!!

The next few hours was a flurry of events....To the conveyor belt to pick up Papa's bags....To the odd size luggage counter to pick up our bike boxes....Contacting Prim, Alvin's beautiful "adopted" sister from Bangkok....lunch with Prim...

We had another big task at hand before lunch. Checking in for our next flight to Ubon Ratchathani was the taller order! With 7 bike boxes on 4 trolleys, we made 2 merry go rounds in the overcrowded airport before establishing there was only one visible lift with a long queue!

VT's suggestion of running the bike boxes on the travellator was agreed by all. Frank and VT were designated jobs on the receiving end while Papa, KC and Claudine sent them up. Halfway on the job, there was a huge confusion as the boxes were going up faster than what VT and Frank could cope! The boxes were also clogging up the walkway. Celia and Alvin were the coordinators and in charge of the panniers. Then, there was the issue of who is looking after the boxes at both ends!

The worst was Departure Hall was 2 levels up!!!!

When we finally got to Thai Smiles' Check in Counter, we heard loud screaming and cheering. No wonder the airport was so crowded!!! In the house, was a Korean pop group that only Celia recognizes. Sadly, they did not get the accorded fan attention from us!


Our next order was to move our bikes to the odd sized luggage counter. Since Celia's, Frank's and VT's bike boxes were slightly damaged, we wondered if it will survive the second leg! Thankfully, VT had brought masking tape for mending.


The most lovely and beautiful Prim met us for lunch. With everything checked in, we could finally relax and enjoy our lunch at S&P Simply Delicious Restaurant inside the airport.


Thai Smiles truly made us smile! Sausage and cheese bun with your choice of drinks were served on that short flight. Mr Bean was showing on the small overhead inflight TV. Toilets were clean.

While we boarded on a bright scorching day, we now arrive at Ubon Ratchathani in darkness. Nightfalls very early in this part of the world.

The airport at UR was small but traveller friendly. There was a water dispenser at the baggage area. Toilets were clean.

We found ourselves a small quiet corner at Arrival Hall to assemble our bikes. Everyone worked quietly except for Frank and Papa.

Frank was a nervous wreck. He broke his tube valve while trying to work his pump. Alvin calmed him down and between Alvin, KC and Claudine, they managed to get his tyres pumped up.

Papa screwed up either during packing or unpacking. He lost a hub nut on his wheel. Chief engineer, KC declared the bike unfit for riding. With that, Papa had to repack his bike into a bike bag and hitch a taxi ride to the hotel.

Meanwhile, the balance of the team rode the 5-6 km to the hotel with a minor hiccup at the traffic lights. VT had to stop to tighten his handlebar while Celia waited with him. We later regrouped further down the road and and managed to ride to Ubon Bliss Hotel with no more incidences. We arrived just as Papa's taxi came to a halt at the lobby!


The Ozzie team came out to greet us! The Howards and Meadows had travelled to Kuala Lumpur the night before, briefly slept at Tune Hotel before starting their second leg to UR in the morning.

Greetings were exchanged. Introductions were made. Group photos were taken. Briefings were given.


Then... Dinner on the streets! Noodle soup with meatballs, Pad Thai and to top it up...LTF's favorite....7 Eleven fare!!!